Nigerians disregard skin-care risks amid market growth – The desire for light skin as a standard of beauty is driving the expansion of Nigeria’s multimillion-dollar skincare market, with many consumers ignoring the dangers posed by certain products.
The robust demand for skin-whitening products from consumers has made skincare one of the most dynamic sectors of the personal care industry.
According to ecommerceDB, a database managed by Statista, the Nigerian skin care e-commerce market is anticipated to reach $61 million by 2023.
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The segment represents 9.9 percent of the e-commerce market for personal care products, and analysts anticipate that market volume will reach $89.9 million by 2027.
According to a study of the use of skin fairness products by the Centre for Health and Social Sciences, Tata Institute of Social Sciences, India and the Centre for Appearance Research, University of the West of England, the skin-lightening industry will be worth $31 billion globally by 2024.
According to data from Euromonitor, of the $500 billion in retail sales of beauty products worldwide in 2019, skincare products generated $120 billion, the second-highest amount after personal care products’ $236 billion.
Entrepreneurs, personalities, and social media influencers have entered the mainstream marketing of a variety of skin-altering products, including organic lighteners, whiteners, toners, evening creams, acne erasers, and fading gels.
With promotions in supermarkets, neighbourhood stores, and online platforms ranging from TikTok to Instagram, Snapchat, Facebook, and Twitter, producers target users of all budget sizes.
Depending on the intensity of the chemicals combined, the prices of some sets of organic creams with hidden bleaching agents range from N10,000 to N100,000, and purchasers are frequently willing to pay a premium for what is perceived as a natural formulation.
World Skin Health Day 2023 is co-sponsored by the Nigerian Association of Dermatologists and La Roche-Posay.
While some manufacturers formulate their products based on decades of scientific research, many are inspired by business trends and rarely involve dermatologists, formulation chemists, toxicologists, microbiologists, or skincare consultants.
Before being sold to the public, the National Agency for Food and Drug Administration and Control (NAFDAC) approves only a select few products.
Professor of Medicine and Dermatology and consultant physician at the University of Port Harcourt Teaching Hospital in Port Harcourt, Dasetima Altraide, told BusinessDay that the majority of creams and soaps labelled as organic contain steroids and other harmful medications that are not disclosed on the label or packaging.
He stated that the use of certain skin-whitening products could result in long-term skin disorders.
While promoters are laughing all the way to the bank due to soaring sales, Altraide warns that users may face risks such as exogenous ochronosis, a blue-black pigmentation; dyschromia, a patchy or irregular skin discoloration; and fish odour syndrome.
“It may also cause bacterial and fungal infections in patients, some of which have been treated in our dermatology clinics. It is a pandemic, said the professor. As a consequence of disseminating false information to the public, a large number of individuals are profiting immensely from this.
Jenny’s Glow, a popular skincare brand often promoted by celebrities, was criticised by a number of users two weeks ago for the negative effects it had on their complexion, despite receiving positive reviews from influencers.
Later, it became evident that the NAFDAC certification number on a number of the products had expired without being renewed.
Chinwe Okoroafor, a former consumer of the brand, stated that a comedian she admired promoted the product, prompting her to purchase it. However, after two weeks of use, she realised she was misled.
“I have previously used the product. They are excellent for the first two weeks, but then they start wreaking havoc on your skin,” Okoroafor said in response to an Instagram video criticising the brand.
“Even though I didn’t use it for up to a month, it took me nearly six months to recuperate from the damage. And I purchased it because I saw Warri Pikin advertising Jenny’s Glow.”
A second user reported that her sister developed stretch marks after spending more than N100,000 on the brand’s products.
“I purchased Egyptian soap and half-cast lotion for her… It toughened my epidermis. My epidermis began to flake, and the condition worsened on my feet. Joy Chinenye stated that she is still attempting to remove the darkened knuckles and regain her epidermis after nearly two years.
The Igbinoba After an initial denial and resounding criticism from an Instagram user with the handle @verydarkman1, Jennifer, the creator of Jenny’s Glow Skincare Enterprise, acknowledged the complaints.
She vowed to address the issues, stating, “I’m contrite to everyone I have offended. I accept responsibility, and I concur that the products are subpar. I will rebrand and repair everything. We are returning stronger and with improved products.”
This is just one of many brands.
Edward Group, the founder of Global Healing and a physician specialising in alternative medicine in the United States, stated that it is not always true that organic skin care products are free of toxic chemicals and comprised of natural ingredients.
There are approximately 19 chemicals that he advises consumers to avoid in cosmetics, bath products, and beautification products. Butylated hydroxyanisole, borates, coal tar, formaldehyde, polyethylene glycol, mercury, hydroquinone, oxybenzone, triclosan, and parabens are some examples.
Other contaminants include fragrance, phthalates, petroleum distillates, siloxanes and cyclomethicone, sodium lauryl sulphate and sodium laureth sulphate, toluene, retinol and retinyl palmitate/acetate, polytetrafluoroethylene also known as Teflon, and nanoparticles.
The Department of Sociology and Anthropology at Mills College, United States, found in a study of colorism and skin tone that skin lightening is a cultural practise that has persisted in postcolonial nations such as Nigeria, Mexico, Pakistan, Saudi Arabia, Jamaica, the Philippines, Japan, India, Tanzania, Senegal, Uganda, Kenya, Ghana, and the United States.
Frequently, these products contain one of three toxic substances: mercury, hydroquinone, or corticosteroids.
One of the chemicals of global concern identified by the World Health Organisation (WHO) is mercury.
Even though it is used as a compound in pesticides, pharmaceuticals, paints, and traditional medicine, among other uses, the primary use of mercury in cosmetics is for skin-lightening lotions, in which inorganic mercury is sometimes used as the active ingredient.
According to the World Health Organisation, mercury ions prevent the formation of melanin, resulting in a lighter skin tone. According to the Minamata Convention on Mercury, the established mercury limit for skin-lightening products is 1 milligramme per kilogramme.
The convention is a global treaty designed to safeguard human health and the environment from mercury and mercury compounds emitted and released by humans.
It entered into force in 2017 and 114 countries have ratified it as of 2019.
To enhance the whitening effect, however, many cosmetic products contain mercury levels above this threshold, according to WHO, which notes that its products are readily available despite being banned in many countries, including Nigeria.
WHO data indicate that Bangladesh, China, the Dominican Republic, Hong Kong SAR (China), Jamaica, Lebanon, Malaysia, Mexico, Pakistan, the Philippines, the Republic of Korea, Thailand, and the United States are the leading manufacturers of mercury-based skin-lightening products.
BusinessDay’s findings also indicate that Togo is a key hub for the importation of mercury into West Africa, with a substantial amount reaching Ghana and Nigeria.
Mercury can also be found as a preservative in cosmetics for the eye area, such as mascara, and in eye makeup cleansing products. Mercury is both inorganic and organic in cosmetics.
Organic mercury compounds are used as cosmetic preservatives, while inorganic mercury compounds are used in skin-lightening creams and cleansers.
The toxicity of these forms of mercury varies, as do their effects on the nervous, digestive, and immune systems, as well as the lungs, kidneys, epidermis, and eyes.
Some of the adverse health effects of inorganic mercury contained in skin-lightening creams and soaps include kidney damage, skin rashes, skin discolouration and scarring, reduction in the skin’s resistance to bacterial and fungal infections, anxiety, melancholy, psychosis and peripheral neuropathy.
For Lagos-based dermatologist Olufolakemi Cole-Adeife, these effects are not implausible.
Four out of every ten patients she encounters each day have skin problems resulting from skin lightening.
“Once a product contains a brightening, lightening, toning, or glowing component, it typically contains dangerous skin-lightening agents,” Cole-Adeife told BusinessDay.
“I believe that more advocacy and education are required. In addition, I believe NAFDAC must do a better job of regulating the cosmetics industry.”
Citing a global study, NAFDAC disclosed in April that 77% of Nigerian women used skin-lightening products.
Lessons can be learned from Unilever’s exit from the household and skin care markets.
The agency is in charge of beauty product regulation in Nigeria, ensuring the safety, quality, and efficacy of food, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, medical devices, and other regulated products in Nigeria.
Its beauty product regulations encompass ingredients, production, labelling, testing, distribution, and sale.
Additionally, NAFDAC has a variety of enforcement mechanisms to ensure that cosmetic products adhere to its regulations.
These mechanisms consist of inspections of manufacturing facilities, sampling and testing, recalls of non-compliant products, and prosecution of NAFDAC regulations violators.
However, its capabilities are limited. The agency does not inspect every skin care product sold in the United States. Numerous counterfeit and substandard products are able to circumvent its enforcement, posing a grave health risk to consumers.
An expert stated, “As long as the desire for fairness persists, Nigeria may face a full-blown pandemic of skin disorders.”
